Notes on... Praza

We welcome with two perfectly placed air kisses the update given to the British institution that is afternoon tea, by Indian restaurant Praza. Earl Grey is switched out for a masala chai, the ginger and cardamom an apt and effective digestif. If you're of a savoury disposition, head straight for the mini beetroot balls — spiced with black onion seeds and a crisp crumb-fried coating — they're Marie Curie-level genius. Based on a popular Indian street food, the lamb khatti is the carnivore's pick, each roll packing plenty of flavour with a pitch perfect heat. For those looking forward to the latter half of proceedings, the coconut gulab jamun — an extraordinary fried cottage cheese concoction — sounds questionable, but is eye-closingly indulgent. The postscript to this most pleasant of culinary creations is the bhapa doi — a welcome palate cleanser of steamed mango yoghurt. Hot tip: save the crunchy chocochori 'til last, a bite-size pastry filled with dark chocolate that's above reproach.

Served on Sundays, afternoon tea prices start at £18.95.

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